The Spirit

What is Roke?

2026-04-018 min read

A new classification for spirits defined by vapour infusion, archival heritage, and rogue process. Open to any maker. Jack's Drift is the founding expression.

Roke is not a brand. It is not a recipe. It is a set of conditions, four of them, and any producer anywhere in the world can use the name without licence or permission, as long as their spirit meets all four. I wrote it because I had made something that had no name. This is an account of what those conditions are, and why they matter.

The name comes from an old word for steam, vapour, or mist rising off water. It seemed right. Impressionism named itself after a technique rather than a subject. Roke does the same thing. What the vapour carries is the point, not the category the liquid ends up in. Let that do the work of the name before anything else.

The full charter lives at the Roke classification page. What follows is an account of what it means and why it was written.

The four conditions

A spirit qualifies as Roke if it meets all four criteria. Not three. All four.

First: vapour infusion. Botanicals must be suspended above the spirit during distillation, not steeped in it. The spirit vapour rises through or past them, picks up their volatile character, and carries it into the condenser. That process must be the primary means of botanical extraction, and the dominant flavour character of the finished spirit must come from it. A Roke is defined by what the vapour carries.

Second: archival reference. The spirit must draw from at least one archival or extinct botanical tradition. Something that existed before categories were legislated, before juniper became law, before the industry wrote the rules. This is not about faithful reconstruction. The archival reference is a point of departure, not a destination. You look back, find something worth recovering, and then go somewhere new with it.

Third: rogue ingredient or process. At least one ingredient or process must cross a category boundary. Something drawn from brewing, from the culinary world, from winemaking or cooperage, from any discipline not conventionally associated with botanical spirit production. The boundary crossing may be in what is used, how it is used, or both. The intent is deliberate. This is not accident.

Fourth: no governing recipe. Beyond the three criteria above, the recipe belongs entirely to the maker. No prescribed botanical. No required ratio. No inherited tradition to honour. The maker's intent is the only governing rule. This is what keeps Roke an open category rather than a new cage.

Why vapour infusion matters

The distinction between vapour infusion and maceration is not technical trivia. It changes what the spirit becomes.

When botanicals are steeped directly in spirit before or during distillation, the spirit pulls from them aggressively. You get extraction. You get weight. The botanical character can overwhelm, or at least dominate, the base.

Vapour infusion is gentler and more selective. I have stood beside the still and watched the vapour rise into the basket. The room fills with something between a garden and a brewery, and then it shifts as the spirit climbs through each botanical in turn. The temperature is lower than maceration. The contact time is shorter. The volatile aromatic compounds carry across into the condenser. The heavier compounds, the ones that would muddy the spirit if steeped, stay behind in the basket. What condenses on the other side is lifted, precise, aromatic. You can smell what the vapour chose to take with it.

This selectivity is what allows a Roke spirit to carry multiple distinct botanical characters without any single one taking over. It is also what allows the base spirit, and the cask influence if present, to remain audible beneath them. You are not drinking botanical extraction cut with alcohol. You are drinking a spirit that has been scented, shaped, directed by vapour.

Gin uses the same technique. The distinction is in what comes before the vapour basket, what goes into it, and what happens after.

What makes a spirit a Roke, and what doesn't

A spirit is a Roke if it meets all four criteria. That is the whole test.

A gin made with an unusual botanical is not a Roke. Unusual botanicals are already inside the category gin occupies. Roke requires that at least one ingredient or process comes from outside. Brewing. Cuisine. Cooperage. Winemaking. Something the botanical spirit world did not anticipate.

A craft gin that references a historic recipe is not a Roke. The archival reference criterion exists alongside the other three, not instead of them. All four must be met.

A cask-finished whisky is not a Roke. The vapour infusion criterion is primary and non-negotiable. If the dominant flavour character does not come from vapour-infused botanicals, the spirit does not qualify.

Roke is not a brand. It is not owned. Any producer may use the term freely. Driftwright and Cooper act as founding maintainers of the charter, which means we steward the criteria, record known expressions, and protect the term from misuse. We do not own it. No single producer does.

The criteria may be refined over time as the category develops. Any changes will be versioned and published openly. The founding criteria constitute Roke v1.0.

Jack's Drift: the founding expression

Jack's Drift Botanical Spirit is the first Roke expression. I made it at Driftwright and Cooper in Devon, and it meets all four criteria.

I use four botanicals in the basket: Citra hops, coriander seeds, fresh orange peel, and organic Earl Grey tea. Each one is suspended above the spirit during distillation. The bright citrus and hop character on the nose, the bergamot lift, the herbal structure on the palate: all of that comes from what the vapour carries through those four botanicals.

The archival reference is the hopped grain spirit of pre-regulatory Northern Europe. Before juniper was codified as the defining botanical of gin, distillers flavoured grain spirit with hops as a matter of course. That tradition was erased when the gin rule was established. I reached back through the erasure to a time when hops in a spirit were simply a reasonable thing to do.

The rogue ingredients are the Citra hops, drawn from the brewing tradition, and the Earl Grey tea, drawn from the culinary world. Neither belongs in a conventional botanical spirit. Both are in the basket. After distillation the spirit also rests on plums, a direct nod to the slivovice tradition that inspired the archival reference, before being finished on rum-seasoned oak staves borrowed from whisky and rum cooperage tradition.

And it has no governing recipe. I chose the botanicals for what they do together, not because any authority prescribed them. No ratio is fixed. No tradition demands fidelity. What is in the bottle is what I decided the spirit should be.

42% ABV. 700ml. Made in Devon. The full specification, tasting notes, and serve suggestions are on the product page. For the complete charter, including the open governance terms, visit the Roke classification page.